Morris Minor Owners Club

tie bars and rod-ends are OK,
about to check the damper bolts.

The damper should need an overhaul/replacement actually, could that be the problem too?
Are there any other joints between the steering gear and the wheels?

Hi everybody I've replaced all the rubber on the steering mechanism close to the wheel, changed the bearings of the frontwheels, including seals and spacers. But I stell get a knocking sound on the left side when riding over small bumps. When braking hard, my steering wheel shakes too. What else sho...

Hi,

My clutch link (thin rod coming from the pedal) just broke down.
Can somebody tell me which part I need to order on ESM or Bullmotive?

thanks

I know you don't need one, but my tank should need a good cleaning, or even be replaced, untill then I prefer a filter.

Well
the filter was definately blocked, not completely but enough to restrict a decent flow,
replaced it, now the pump ticks more like it used to.
First little trip went fine, so i guess that was the problem

I need start looking at the simplest things,
the fuel filter was blocked indeed

thanks

theres no low tension lead inside the distributor on my dizzy, the low tension lead goes straight onto the points at my sidevalve

reading a few messages about vacuums caused by bad breathing of the fuel tank, I started thinking. I noticed that the fuel pump doens't tick like it used to. When driving she used tot thick very fast after pulling away at a traffic light for instance. Also very fast when turning the contact-key. Low...

new coil
new condenser
pump works
distributor is fine

she seems to stall the moment she gets on temperature

Hi, the problem in this topic still isn't solved. http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=39748 I guessed it was the heat but now its just 22°C outside , she ran very fine for about 5 Km, I stopped somewhere and left there after 30 minutes, ran 100 meters stalled, started again, 100m stalled,...

The points are rather new, but you never know.
I'll replace them and see what happens.

Well, in that case, it would be a good idea to put an extra fan in the engine bay.
Does anyone have a good solution, type, fitting?

greetings

Hello, after some issues with the ignition rotor, my sidevalve ran fine, untill this morning. She started stuttering an stalling, restarting got harder and harder untill she completely refused. When the engine was idling, everything seemed to be fine but after about 100m accellerating from zero, she...

haha, you owe the first one who can proof he has a faulty coil a bottle of champagne.

I can't see where it's faulty, I assume the plastic is of low insulating quality, but where?

Replacing the rotor with a well insulated red rotor cleared the problems.

But for the weird Ohm values, I blame it on bad measuring skills

Marky B was right, replacing it with a red rotor did the trick

Points do open, so that's cancelled
there's no wiring exposed as far as I can see.
So it has to be the condenser.

Thanks

Hello, due the problems I have , written over here http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=38798 I bumped into this site http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig106.htm Its for MG dizzies, but I wondered if it could be applied to a sidevalve too. It says that the Ohm value should be 50 megaOhm o...

No, the old rotor was worn out and I trew it away.
I guess the bad insulation of the new rotor seems to be plausible, but weird too because it only functioned for about 150 Km

Nothing funny to see at the outside or inside of the cap.
Only some very small irregularities on the bulge where the carbon brush comes out at the inside of the cap.
I doubt this is a problem.