Morris Minor Owners Club

Hi, as Kevin says look at the restoration section there are plenty of ideas and advice in there, here is my contribution which might help
viewtopic.php?f=28&t=34278
Best of luck Ian

Dont forget its essential to match up the big ends and main caps if its all in bits, there should be markings on each one showing the relative position on the crank.

I find using a vacuum pump, I do OS front, NS front, NS rear and OS rear as the order. Works every time for me without a helper
Like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bleeder-Tester ... B00HHXRBWI
Cheers, Ian

Thank you all for your help and suggestions, I may just leave it with upgrading to front discs only at this time, perhaps next

Phill, Any reason for not fitting the stone shield Just waiting for my kit to arrive.
Ian

It's some years now since I completed a full refurbishment on my 1955 2 door saloon and it struck me the other day she was looking a bit low on the back end compared to others I see around. On the refurbishment I re-used the original 7 leaf rear springs and torsion bars, just replaced the bushes and...

All the cards, headlining and pull handle came from Newton and yes as David says there is a card which fits across the rear under the window, this covers the headlining tension wires. Of course there is a wooden bit at the front as well.

I got mine for a 2 door 1955 saloon from Newton and all fitted ok. Here is a couple of pics, the creases soon disappear. [frame] http://mmoc.org.uk/mbimage.php?src=1452384893_12679 [/frame] [frame] http://mmoc.org.uk/mbimage.php?src=1452385011_12679 [/frame] [frame] http://mmoc.org.uk/mbimage.php?sr...

Here it is:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/509 ... ebuild.pdf

Alternatively you can do what I did, do a conversion using a 1098 gearbox. See my post in "Useful Tips"

Hi and welcome to the site. It's unlikely to be earthing as your main beam is ok, it is more likely to be the connection from the drivers side dipped beam to the passenger side dipped beam via the snap connectors. The colour is Blue/Red and is fed from the dip switch and then linked across to connec...

Well from what you describe I would say its the roller bearing that fits in the 1st motion shaft and what the 3rd motion shaft fits into namely 10G140/CHM172, that would explain the excessive movement. Do a complete rebuild its worth it. Back to the removal of all the parts, just follow the Haynes m...

From my limited experience of re-building gearboxes, one, I would suggest that it is very excessive and indicates a worn or damaged 3rd motion shaft bearing (10G184/22A465) or possibly the roller bearing (10G140/CHM172) that fits into the 1st motion shaft that the 3rd motion shaft fits into. Do a re...

Sorry its a bit late, I kept forgetting I had an old spare one.
Cheers, Ian
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This was a thread I started in the Mechanical Section but I have edited the chit chat out and added some addition bits. It may be of some use to someone who wishes to do the same. After many miles of putting up with my old and seemingly reliable 803 gearbox I have decided to “upgrade” to a 1098 and ...

Your quite right Roy, thanks for reminding me.

This any good?
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All done and dusted, completed conversion. Now to get the engine and gearbox out of the car and decide whether or not to replace the clutch and thrust for a 1098 version?
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Already done that Roy, plus the postage.

Well the new front cover with oil seal was a waste of time, when fitted the 1st motion shaft nut binds with the cover, you can just see where it catches here, in fact it locks up solid :x [frame] http://mmoc.org.uk/mbimage.php?src=1435233950_12679 [/frame] As a comparison this is the original cover,...