Morris Minor Owners Club

OK, will do - I'm happy to try anything that might isolate the problem in a way that won't require me to replace complete servo, change brake lines and make new servo mounts. The reason I say that is that I have read horrible stories on this and other forums about a dodgy run of far-Eastern servos i...

Aaaaannnd - where back to where we started, with intermittent brakes holding on. When they do, the pedal becomes very hard. However a quick push on the pedal seems to make the release gain.

Hey, maybe I can pretend I've got a foot-operated parking brake?!

BTW, I'd do it differently anyway - in particular I was pretty gobsmacked that you'd remove the eyebolt to change the bushes. In my experience, removing the tight, and usually rusted-in, eyebolt can take an additional 4 times the time spent to dismantle the suspension. Whilst it's good to get it out...

Sadly, SUs like tinkering, Webers do not. They are notoriously hard to set up properly. I have Webers on my racing engine, but it takes a dynamometer (aka rolling road), several hours, and a drawer full of alternative jets to properly set them up to deliver of their best. Below their best , they are...

Don't have answers, just lots of sympathy. I once spent ages measuring, precision drilling, filing, polishing, bending and aligning bits to convert a two speed Mini motor to drive the Minor mech. Lots of fiddling, then moment of truth. Attached first wire, then the second - and instantly knew I'd sc...

I can see how you *could* do it without removing the tie rod from its yoke, but I can't see why you would - the saving in time would be very minimal since all you save is undoing a couple of nuts a side, and a much more dangerous way of unloading the torsion bar. Me, I like disassembling the whole l...

I don't NEED the servo, but the pedal is very hard/heavy with the discs without the servo. An emergency stop with the servo feels much safer/more powerful than without, it vastly reduces pedal presssure and hence wear on the pesky pedal shaft, and the better half is much more comfortable driving it ...

Have now completely flushed the braking system with new fluid, and it does seem to have made a temporary difference. I'm not at all convinced that it is fixed though. The old fluid did look a bit thick and yucky, and some sediment came through. The temporary improvement may simply be from the action...

OK, the problem disappears when the vacuum pipe to the servo is disconnected (and plugged!), so it is distinctly looking like a servo problem. Next trick is to thoroughly bleed the brakes in case there's some foreign material stuck in the servo valves that can be flushed out - faint hope I know but ...

No, per original post, the brake pedal rises normally - it therefore doesn't appear to be the usual broken spring/binding pedal shaft/jammed carpet problems associated with sticking pedals. Whether the master cylinder piston is coming back at the same rate may be a different matter.

It's a interesting question. I can't see any reason why not. If you were trying to fill it through the gear lever hole in the RC it might be a different matter, but as far as I know the RC mounting hole leads straight into the main gearbox chamber. So as long as you take the filler plug out first, a...

Presume you've checked you've got the specified free play on the clutch adjustment? If it is going to slip, it will always tend to slip in the higher gears because of the higher torque load.

I don't know that fuel IS being pumped to the carb - if it is, why does the pump keep constantly ticking? - hence the query about whether the free air ticking speed is the same as when it is connected to the carb. It should be a lot faster when disconnected than connected. If it is sucking and pumpi...

Thanks Katy. I had the wheels off to grease the front suspension 2 weeks ago and visually checked the brakes then and all looked good. They are actually fixed calipers with opposed pistons, so nothing to slide and bind (except the pistons). Pads looked evenly (un)worn, disks flat and unmarked, nothi...

I haven't stripped the master cylinder, so don't know for sure, but since the brakes have been working fine up until the last week, I'm presuming the original installation was done properly (including removal of the top hat). Haven't yet tried it with the vacuum line disconnected - have to find some...

Ray raises some very good points about the reasons for having the bump stops, and why they are so hard. My approach has been to soften the existing bumpstops and make them more progressive. I've always had good results by taking to a new bumpstop with a 1/4 inch drill and making a series of drill ho...

It could be either, or a couple of other causes. a. When you disconnect the fuel line at the carb, does the pump run at the same speed as it does when connected to the carb? b. If you stick the carb end of the fuel line into say a litre container, does the pump keep ticking at the same speed until t...

Yes, standard master cylinder.

There's two sizes - 7/8th was one, the other 15/16th I think. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will advise what the different applications were.

Over the last few days I have been experiencing a problem with the brakes not releasing when I take my foot of the pedal - They hold on for between an extra second to 3 seconds, but coming home tonight they held on for a full block before they released. The car is my '69 Traveller, with Sierra front...